To drive or not to drive? That is the question!
There are a number of considerations that you should take into account prior to deciding whether or not to self-drive the Ha Giang Loop. If you do make the decision to drive your own motorbike, you then need to decide whether you are going to tackle it as part of a tour or entirely on your own. Here are all the details you need to know…
TLDR: driving on your own gives you the thrill of self-accomplishment and freedom, however it may be stressful. You need a 1968 International Driver’s License in order to avoid a police fine. You need the skill and confidence to be able to navigate the difficult roads filled with broken pavement and the frequent obstacles such as chickens, children and cows in the road. You need to remain focused on the road the entire time and may end up missing out on some of the passing sights.
The Ha Giang Loop is not your average motorbike joy ride. If you have rented a scooter and explored Thailand or Bali, be aware that however nifty your riding skills may be, they may not translate to the Ha Giang Loop.
Road Conditions
In recent years, the Ha Giang Loop has become quite busy with traffic as people flock from all over the world to see the amazing mountain ranges that the province has to offer. This means that drivers are now sharing the road with local bike drivers, large supply trucks, buses, tour groups and other self-drivers. Depending on the time of day and the route you choose to go, some of this may be able to be avoided but it’s definitely a factor that needs to be considered. Not only can the roads have a lot of vehicle traffic, but you are also in rural Vietnam, meaning that at any given point you may find chickens, goats, children, cows, buffalo and dogs along the route. These obstacles can come out of nowhere and you need to have the confidence (and skill) to be able to navigate these challenges.
While a good portion of the loop roads are paved, thanks to government infrastructure and road improvements, this doesn’t necessarily make for easy driving. Even the paved roads can be narrow and winding, not to mention outrageously steep, so you need to be practiced in shifting quickly and stopping on tight, narrow corners.
About 30% of the Ha Giang Loop remains unpaved or ‘functionally’ unpaved. This includes a wild section in Lung Ho Valley that can only be described as broken boulders. Buffalo trails and mud paths are not uncommon and require a higher degree of skill and navigation.
Weather
All of the above conditions speak to good weather. The weather in Ha Giang can change dramatically within a couple of hours. If you are planning on visiting the Ha Giang Loop during rainy season (May-August) it is HIGHLY discouraged to drive yourself. This is because there are large portions of the loop that are affected by weather conditions such as mudslides, rockslides and flooding. Not to mention the roads themselves can be incredibly slick and coming down the steep passages make this a bit too much of a risk-taking game. The Easy Riders (local drivers) typically have a minimum of a decade of experience (many of them have been driving these roads since they were teens), and make them much more qualified to navigate these dangerous conditions when the weather takes a turn.
.If you are planning on visiting in dry season, you still need to be aware that rain could be forecast and the road conditions may change quite quickly.
Experience
For some people, the thrill of the loop is not complete without the ability to navigate the roads on their own. We get it! Very little comes close to conquering the mountains of the north on your own motorbike. However, for others, it may end up being more stress than enjoyment. With an Easy Rider (local driver) you are able to relax on the back and take in the sights, including as many photos and videos as your camera can hold. If you choose to self-drive, especially as part of a tour group, you lose the freedom to take in the sights around you as you need to remain focused.
Legal Requirements
If you are wanting to self-drive the loop, you need to hold an International Driver’s License under the 1968 convention in order to avoid police fines. If you do not have the proper license, you will end up paying fines between 3.000.000 VND to 5.000.000 VND (depending on the type of bike you are driving. Please see our article: Driver’s License Requirements on the Ha Giang Loop
Medical Assistance
Another valid, although significantly less discussed piece of the conversation, is that medical attention is not readily available on the Ha Giang Loop. You are literally driving through remote mountain villages and although there are many travellers and locals along the way, medical attention is not easily accessed. This means that if you do not have the experience and skills required to drive, and end up in an unfortunate accident, you may not be able to receive the swift medical attention that you require. Although the local drivers face the same level of access to medical attention as you do if you self-drive, the daily experience navigating these roads leaves them much better equipped and less likely to end up in an accident.
In summary, if you choose to drive the Ha Giang loop without a license, please be aware of the risks and carry cash to pay the fine 🙂
Beyond the legal considerations, take a look at this article with some other considerations to think about prior to self-driving: Should I self-drive the Ha Giang Loop?